The bumpers on the feet of the Eiki SSL-0 projector were worn-down and dried out. No longer providing any 'traction' to keep the projector from sliding on the stand.

So took them off, but saved the small washer and machine screw for re-use with the new bumpers. I found a set of four non-skid bumpers for $2.99 at Rockler (a local woodworking store), but I would guess any good hardware store would have something that would work. The ones I got were a bit soft--not hard plastic. The diameter of the replacement bumpers was just a little less than the factory ones on the Eiki but otherwise worked fine. Make certain the mounting screw fits deep enough into the bumper such that the screw is not exposed, as that would then scratch any surface.

Bonus points for anyone who can tell me what the difference is with this Eiki projector---(hint: see back cover of projector in last pic....)

Those old ones have fallen apart, I've not seen that before. The new ones fit perfectly.

I chopped them with a side cutter to get the little washer out and they just crumbled as you can see....

What I would buy if any of my projector feet had worn out:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOILET-FURNITUR...8ENYW34S8MS043C

Those gold slimlines look very nice, I recently recieved from a good friend an NT1 and have to say, it runs like a sewing machine. Rock steady image, very good sound and as quite running as my SLT2, (before i managed to mess it up with a bit of over enthusiastic cleaning). I often wonder how many 16mm machines there are hiding in cupboards or outhouses that havnt seen the light of day in years, decades even.

Tom,
I think you have said this too, but these Eiki's are very easy to disassemble to get at things as well. I also removed the amp on this machine to spray DeOxit on the audio controls as there was a loud and harsh crackle at times. I think that has been cured now.

The amp is contained in a small metal enclosure and is easy to remove---at least after you do it once. I did it a second time and documented the steps with pics and notes.
I will write up and post here in a few days. Of course, this is just basic disassembly and does not in any way compare with the electronics expertise and technical understanding of projectors like the masters Mr. Parsons and Mr. Brown have!

Greg, is it a remote control socket on the back cover?

Hi Mark,

It took a while to figure this one out, but turns out it is an-after market modification by a company called Doron which makes driver's training simulations. I found the answer over at the 16mm Film Talk Forum.
Back in the day the film would be shown and as it played the class of students would have to answer test questions about the scenario they just viewed by making an electronic entry on a small desk-top answer selector. Of course this was back when there weren't PC's around. The "Codes Out" jack is internally connected to a small circuit board that is then connected to the amp (connecting wire is off in the pic below).

The good news, the projector works normally without anything plugged into "Codes Out". But if you try and disconnect the Doron circuit board (as it is in the picture), then the amp won't work for regular use.



Here is the inside of the back cover, showing the circuit board:

Interesting Greg, a rare machine indeed.

Thanks Maurice, I ordered the bumpers from your Amazon link, they fit very well.