Having now finally got hold of a pair of clip pliers i was able to get the projector back together this afternoon.
Cleaning off all the old oil and grease from the gears and shafts, the gears themselves were placed back into position and new clips applied. Using the correct type of pliers has saved hours of struggling. All gears and shafts now have a fresh oiling and greasing, the friction parts have been refitted back onto the front reel arm, finally, The transformer was refitted and all leads connected. Again, i treble checked the shutter was all ok and that the claw pin is in the correct retracted position before refitting the pressure plate and gate,
I know this seems to be taking forever, but the removal and refitment of the claw pin is now all done. The final piece to all of this is going to be trying to ensure the claw pin is adjusted to best i can achieve. This, i think, is going to be the most critical part as clearly, without the specialist tools to do the job, it is going to be a lot of trial and error.
Later i will summarise these threads to one.

Tom,

This project and the work you've done is truly impressive. Those Eumig "Cir-clips" are definitely a different type than the standard "C-clips" that I have seen on other brands of projectors. I would be interested in seeing the tool you found that works.
I would guess that you've gotten an even better/more detailed understanding of the mechanics/electrical of this projector through this project.

Thanks Greg, yes i can now understand a lot more of the mechanical side of these machines, adjusting the claw is going to be quite fiddley but i will have a good go.an
As for the electrics, i wish i understood this side a lot more. It's all down to being taught by someone who can explain it in basic lay mans English. I learn faster when i shadow someone rather than read books.
Anyway, if your interested, as i bought this machine to experiment, another part of this one that doesn't want to work is the, (guessed yet?) drive!!!!!
Before i took the claw assembly apart, it didn't want to reverse at at all in either speed, as for forward, it did about two FPS before it stopped. I gave it the usual clean up and it did improve it but nothing like a speed you could use it. So i will have a go at the repair which Graham Ritchie from the other channel did, he seemed to have quite a good result.

These machines, while very nice, are still very much not my favourites. I wonder if anyone on here may know a name from the past, Harry Garlick?
He wasnt a person who we ever knew ourselves, but a friend of ours from here in Plymouth, many years ago now, once told us about Harry, apparently he was a huge Eumig fan and if you sent your machine to him, he stripped it down on his bench and then re-built them. Very old school, therefore, the very best.

BTW, i was very lucky than i was able to obtain a decent quantity of these Eumig clips, there seems to be two sizes, i have 10 of the smaller ones a few of the larger ones which will now come in handy. The pliers i now have should make things very simple.

Well done Tom, i'm intrigued to know though as to which circlip pliers you bought. I know quite a few machines have these but a different design, some would just remove them with a suitable screw driver, but this tends to distort them out of shape, so difficult to put back, i've had them break too, and they fly off into outer space if your not careful. I never really liked that odd design with the rubber wheels on these machines, and the single pin claw, unless you know the bloody thing gets broken. The electronics is always mine field mate, unless you know, you can open a can of worms, been there got the T shirt, its about knowing you limitations, as they say curiosity killed the cat, i can check some things, but you need some equipment, a meter is a must, and you can check quite few things with one, i have some specialised bits and pieces to do more accurate measurements, but it can still lead you up a blind alley, know your limits and stick to them............

Paul, as it happens, the pliers i used were purchased from a cycle shop. They are circlip pliers but like the ones Greg has, they are very narrow and the tip when closed. They fit perfectly into the ears of the smallest clip on the Eumigs and will almost certainly be a criticle tool for most projectors. I can see how this job would only take an hour or so maximum if you were experienced with all the correct tools from the start.

I find it scary to even be near the claws. One mistake and the projector is useless. So well done!

Thanks Eivind and Paul,
Tonight i quickly plugged the projector in as per service book instruction, when i bought it the machine wound not do more than a few FPS, i tried the rubber clean up but it only slightly improved it. After the claw job i was going to tackle taking all the back motor etc end out, however, having cleaned everything out and re-greased it all as i was replacing the claw, i was quite pleased with myself to now see everything spinning up to speed immediately the rotary switch was turned on.
I didn't expect that, therefore it looks as though most of the lack of spin up was due to old oil and grease either lacking or being gummed up with lack of use. Hopefully all i need to do now is sort the claw adjustment to best best i can. I will report back with images as and when i get the time to do it, hopefully soon.

Paul, regarding those clips and pliers, i did mangle one clip, break one and one did ping away. It took me over an hour struggling to get them off, once i had the pliers, i was able to remove in seconds, and also replace back on in seconds. As always, the right tools make the job so much easier.

Well done Tom.

Tom,

This is important info for Eumig owners that you have discovered--that is, sticky lube can be even more of a problem than the slick disc surface--which is what usually gets the blame. I have an 807SD that has the slow motor speed, and your findings are very much appreciated. Hopefully I won't have to do too much dissassembling for a proper clean and lube.

Just a very quick update to say i havnt forgotten to finish this project off, i have struggled to find the time to sit down with this projector to set the claw up as best i can. I am hoping to get it done over the next few weeks and will update. Greg, sorry i didn't reply, but yes, replacing and re-oiling the inner parts you cant normally get to certainly seemed to make the machine come back to life. When we first got it i did the usual, cleaned up the rubber disks and oiled where i could see, but all this did was allowed the projector to make a few fps when turned on. I havnt touched it since this last part 4 thread was put up and i am pleased to say it fired up right away. It surprised me as well.

I wish i could get a look at the tool that puts the claw in its fitting, a couple of digital pictures of it would give us a clew as to how it works, could probably make one then. The pictures in the manual are no good, very vague and fuzzy..........

Paul, i will see if john white would email me a couple of images. It may help.

Cant believe its been nearly seven months since i parked this projector up, so today i decided to give this claw pin set up a go. Unfortunatly, these Eumigs are not my forte and they are as fiddly as hell to work on and today, to top it off, I lacked a certain size screwdriver i need, (pain in the arse when that happens).
Following the instructions so far i had obviously managed to pull the frame assembly apart and put it all back together, i dont have the recommended claw gauge so i was intending to have a go by eye using white leader.
With the lens out, and only the super 8 film guide in, i was able to see that the pin was miles out, the pin on it's fullest transport position was not making any contact with the film. To adjust this, following the service manual, though in English, is like reading Chinese. It states, Loosen the grub screw on the shutter and shift the shutter until the claw has reached the same height as the claw gauge, or in my case, a few thickness's of white leader joined to one another.
Turning the frame line knob until at its tightest, is when to check the claw pin's pass through the perforation hole. (apparently). Some of the translation is literal and often needs to be read back a few times, but is is good to see a service book for the 700 and 800 series Eumigs.
To ensure the tip of the claw is in the centre of the perforation the two cylindric screws, (top and bottom with the grey paint in the final image here), need to be loosened slightly and then, what the service book calls the eccenter, (small brass screw to the left of the top screw), needs to be turned until the pin is in the centre of the perforation. Once done, tighten the two cylindric screws. Not quite as straight forward as it sounds, but thats pretty much it. Until i get the screwdriver i need i will revisit it up once more and come back here to let you know how i get on. On this particular machine, i will have a go at the rear motor mounts at it now has that crappy Eumig slow as hell speed problem and it isn't the discs. The super fans of these machines always make me laugh, they always praise them up but then show images of their film shows using an elmo or other make of machine

Tom,

Great stuff here! Thank you for doing the research on this and posting such precise instructions. I do have a Eumig with a broken claw. I have to dig through the Eumigs to see if it is a 807 SD or 810 SD. I would also greatly appreciate detailed photos on any upcoming motor mount repair/replace you may pursue in the weeks ahead. This is so valuable to collectors now a days that profession service technicians are so few and far between.

At long last, I have now got around to finishing the claw pin replacement on my Eumig 810DLUX. It’s been a long job simply because I don’t have the time I use to for this sort of thing. I do at the moment as I am home with Covid so it’s keeping my mind busy. As per the other threads of this project all I needed to do was to get the pin to engage the film as best as I could without the use of any claw protrusion tool which would have made things more accurate. As it’s turned out, I believe I have this as near to the book as I can get it.
I needed to get the claw pin forward, and centred and in order to do this I loosened the two grub screws, (image three shows one of the two screws) holding the shutter onto the shaft, once loosened, the whole shutter piece can be moved forward and back for the protrusion.
To get what I think is about the correct setting took me five goes at it but this. Next was to get the claw pin in the centre of the perforation, this was a lot more fiddley than I thought. The correct way to do this, is to loosen the two cylindric screws 960.514 at the frame line lever, (shown on the illustration referring two the second image), and then turn the eccenter E until the claw tip is in the middle of the perforation hole. This proved to be a pain in the backside so I did it the cowboy way, I loosened the two cylindric screws and then I moved the lever by hand, it took a few goes at it because the movements have to be so very fine, (hence the small screw is the correct way but I couldn’t get to it with the drivers I had, I think i have it about right now. I’m sure if a professional got hold of it I would be told the claw pin needs adjusting, but the good news is, I threaded up an old film and it ran fine, the claw isn’t catching, the image is rock steady and the film is not snagging in any way. What a job!!!!! I guess like anything, the more you do it, the easier it would get. In this whole job the one thing I disliked the most was those stupid circlips Eumig use. Fortunately, I now have the right type of pliers to get them off, luckily I now have some spares.
Like 99.9% of the Eumig 700 and 800 series machines, this one is suffering with slow running. It’s one of the reasons I can’t abide these projectors, one of the worst drive ideas ever, and yet they kept it for so many models, my Brother, who does like them, had slow running eumig problems since 1974, his first 810D was brand new out the box from a local cine shop and it slowed down half way through films from day one, each time it went back to Henderson’s under warranty & it was a six week wait and each time it came back exactly the same. After four attempts we ended up with the shop swopping it for another new one. No one will ever convince me that these are reliable projectors. I bet Henderson’s threaded up a short test film and assumed there was nothing wrong with it. Clearly some idiot didn’t bother reading the sheet which stated that the projector slowed down to a standstill after around 200ft of film. Customer service was poor to say the least back then.

Back to this machine, to sort the speed. Initially I bought this machine to strip it completely and include changing the motor mounts, the inside and outside of this projector is as clean as a whistle so when I looked a bit closer the mounts actually looked ok. Instead I thoroughly cleaned the rear rubber discs using a product that was recommended to me by a fellow collector friend, the product is called platenclean. It’s sold mostly for rubber rollers on printers, as well as cleaning the rubber it restores grip. I gave both discs two good cleans, then as per instruction, used a dry clean cloth to dry it all off.
Bingo, it worked, instant start up in both forward and reverse, I have also done the same with the 822 sonomatic this afternoon and again, it’s worked fine.
I can’t remember the last time i actually used one of these machines for viewing serious film shows but now I have these two I will use the duel gauge for standard 8s and the sonomatic for our old home movies. The 810DLUX came with the much better Suprogon 1:2 lens which does make a lot of difference to the standard 1:3 especially when viewing standard 8 films. The amp hum’s far too noisy for a proper audience viewing but on a positive note, they are nice looking machines, very compact, they run relatively quiet and above all, they are kind to films, it’s a shame that there’s no way of removing film during projection but for my own use, it will always be the Elmo’s the Bauer and hopefully another addition on its way but will wait and see.
I hope some eumig owners will have found these claw pin threads useful. Any feedback, (or corrections) will be very welcomed.

Ha Ha Ha, finally you got peg leg done, well done mate, some good pictures there too. I could never understand that drive mechanism either, bloody daft idea if you ask me .........

haha, it is the jeg the peg of the projector world, they do have their supporters and there is an awful lot of them around, at least this particular sonomatic is a twin claw, super 8 only model though. This 810D is an early model, it has the rear switch so you can turn it off instead of having the fan going continuously. I think with these, as long as they are used constantly they are fine, the 600ft spool limit would be something many collectors wouldn't be too happy with but for my use of these, they will be ideal for the old home movies and the few standard 8s we have, one of which is the full feature of Winchester 73.
Brother already has his own 822 sonomatic, an 810d and an 802. Each and every one has suffered with the slowing down, anyone out there want to convince why it would be a first choice machine?

Nice job Tom, it makes for good reading and helpful for others with these machines. Hope your not too bad with covid too, Mark

Thanks Mark, i was wondering if Eivind/Greg could amalgamate the four separate threads for this, parts 1 to 4 into one. I should have started one thread and just added to it.

I have decided to revive this thread because since the claw was done the projector has not been used at all and like all Eumigs, seems to have decided not to run at more than a few frames per second.
As I am only playing with this projector I'm thinking the best thing for me to do is accept it for what I bought it for, an experiment.
What I will be doing over the coming weeks and months is stripping the machine down as far as I dare, front to back top top to bottom, so for any fans of Eumigs out there, please give me any advise you want, I will strip it down and hopefully have a go at the hard bit, getting it back together.
It will be a slow process and i will try and follow the Eumig service book which itself is a challenge due to some to poor translation, however, I have a few new parts to add and i will load up images as and when I progress, (or not).
Lets see where the Eumig fans are, I will need your help if your at all interested.

OH NO , NOT THAT OLD CHESTNUT, WELL IF YOU HAVE FEW A BITS LEFT OVER YOU CAN ALWAYS USE AS A DOOR STOP .............

Yes I know what you mean Paul, lets just see if i can this old banger up and running. They are ok for short films but not my cup of tea, My Brother likes these projectors and they are popular, very good on film but just that crappy slipping clutch mechanism. Luckily, I do have a few of those weird circlips that seem to break whenever you try and remove them.

YEP, COULD NEVER UNDERSTAND THAT DAFT DRIVE SYSTEM, ITS NEARLY AS BAD AS THE MECHANISMS IN THE ARMS OF THE BEAULIEU 708 EL, MOOR LIKE A WATCH THAN A PROJECTOR..........

Tom ,
Definitely interested in your Eumig project…I need to dig out mine and try and follow along as you proceed…like you said, a good experiment and opportunity to learn without risking too much.

Cheers Greg, I'll start a new thread for it but it is for me, just an experiment as I did do the claw previously and had it all running but now as always with these projectors, suffering with the discs. I have done the usual's with it and improved it but now I think I'll do what I intended to do the first time I got it, simply strip it down as best as I can following the book and see if goes back together again without any spares left over