Could any users of this projector give me a good indite to it please? I have read the van ek piece but would like to hear from anyone who uses this model.
Just to clarify, sankyo 702

It performs just like all the Sankyo models Tom, 600ft capacity but you can easily modify them for 800ft, mono sound but sound can be played from each track, depending on use can be fairly quiet,150w lamp. It's the model below the 800 stereo machine,reliable when new,Mark

I have a Sankyo 702, and its Bell & Howell clone, the DCT.
J should point out that they both accept 800ft spools.

Try fitting an 800ft spool on the take up Maurice it wont fit unless you fit the rear take up from the 800 machine, Mark

Mark
I have just done as you suggested.
An 800ft spool fits perfectly on the take-up on my 702, with plenty of spare space.
The spool has no maker's name, it's black and is 25cm in diameter. It's marked in feet and metres, and each of the two having separate markings for striped and unstriped film. I have an identical 600ft spool (205mm in diameter) and it's labelled "Carl Schneider K G". Therefore the 800ft must be from the same manufacturer.
These are the take up spools which I regularly use. Perhaps there are larger 800ft spools available from different manufacturers.

Its possible the rear take up has been changed from an 800 machine then Maurice as they are 600ft capacity machines, I always found it strange how the front arm takes a 800ft reel and the rear takes 600ft apart from the 800 model,Mark

I understand that the conversation entails changing the rear film guide for one from an 800 model as the arm itself is long enough, although I can't believe anyone would cannibalise a lovely 800 for this purpose.
Does your 702, Mark, only accept a 600ft spool on the rear spool arm?

I had a 702 for many years but sold it recently and I can definitely confirm that yes, the front arm will easily take an 800' reel but the take up arm will only take a 600' reel (unless it has been modified from the original spec). Very nice, reliable machines.

I have both the B & H DCR & DCM, which were actually made by Sankyo. Again, reliable machines.

B & H also made a DCT with 15v 150w lamp. I noticed on mine a small pad of white material under the lamp, protecting the soundhead from heat. I wondered if it was asbestos! Anyway, sold the DCT on, as the projected images were not as steady as those on the DCR & DCM.

By the way, this forum is great. We have a lack of so-called experts here who actually know nothing, unlike another forum out there. Just seems altogether better, more respectful.

Thank you for the information Simon and really great to see you on here.
I'm always on the look out for anything technical on our machines. I only dabble and am certainly no expert in any way, shape of form.
When i dabble into my machines i like to share it in order to hopefully get any extra hints and tips, my few service books arer also great for reference and information.
I will also add, most of what i know is thanks to the real expert Bill Parsons, when i took my Eiki apart to try and get it all running a few years ago my phone calls to him were lifesavers and it is amazing what you learn just from a short call.
I hope he is keeping well and is enjoying his retirement as best as he can during this strange time we are all going through.

Thought I would mention you can easily modify the Sankyo projectors to take 800ft reels by cutting down the original exit guide and fitting a roller, as stated the arm is long enough it is just the guide that prevents the 800ft reel fitting, in fact on the sankyo 800 the guide is the only difference apart from the sound of course.

Has anyone ever adjusted the potentiometers on this machine? I was looking for them, and they seemed to be buried where they are not that accessible without a tear-down, unless I'm totally missing something. I've always read how easy it is to adjust them on Sankyos, but I guess not on this model.

I'm not sure which one to adjust -- if they are marked somewhere (18fps vs 24fps), I can't see it. Other machines I've had from Yamawa were clearly marked and easily accessible.

I've always read not to use a metal screwdriver -- but no one explains why. I can understand not using one if the machine is plugged in, but is there any harm in using a metal screwdriver when the machine is not plugged in? I have a long metal screwdrive that might be able to reach into where I think the potentiometers are.

I never remember which way to turn them. If I want to slow the motor dowm, is it clock-wise?

Does the voltage selector effect the speed at all? It is set to 110, but the next highest is all the way up to 125. Most machines I have are set to 117. TBH, I've never understood how the speed is controlled on these DC motors.

I found the service manual for the 800 model, but the only place they talk about speed is where it shows a simple diagram where the speed selector is hooked up to. I see no reference to potentiometers.

Thanks

Ok, I got the machine running at the proper speed for 24 fps. Adjusting the voltage setting from 110 to 125 only dimmed the bulb.

The pots are located just in front and to the right of the flywheel when you have the back cover off. Turning them clock-wise slows the motor down. I forgot already, since it was trial and error, but I think the left pot is for 24 fps.

I used a metal screwdriver to turn the pots, but with the unit unplugged. After doing more research, I found out that the only reason not to use a metal screwdriver was the chance of getting shocked/electrocuted! Most people talk about the pots in terms of adjusting the speed in real-time to eliminate flicker for video transfers. As I mentioned, the pots are a bit buried, and I tried several small screwdrivers until I found one long enough to reach the slot in the pots, but short enough to maneuver into the machine without a teardown.

First time I turned a pot, there was no effect on the sound, so I knew I got the wrong pot. 2nd time, I turned the other pot, but turned it the wrong way, and the sound became high pitched. 3rd time was the charm, and luckily I got the sound spot on. I kept a film loaded while doing this, but it was a pain to put the back cover on each time so the internal speaker would let me hear the sound. That's the best way for me to judge sound since I used a film whose correct sound I know very well. I don't care about the 18fps setting since I don't have any sound films that need to be played at 18fps.

It only took me a few hours to get this machine runnning good enough to show a film. The belts were in good shape, so I just took them off and cleaned them with alcohol. There was no dried grease on the gears, and barely any grease even visible. So I added grease. I put a few drops of oil on the main shaft that drives the shutter. I cleaned the film path, and it really wasn't very dirty at all. The outside of the machine just needed a quick dusting with a cloth. The lens cleaned right up with len cleaner and lens tissue. It came with the standard Sankyo f1.3 lens.

I'm curious why this was running too fast. Usually, they run too slow when you get them. Maybe my cleaning the belts, and doing a lube made it run better, and a previous owner adjusted the pots to get it to run up to speed rather than doing as I did. There is also the possibilty that someone used it for tansfers to PAL at 25 fps, but to me it sounded faster than that -- I've seen DVDs that were converted to NTSC that retained the PAL speedup, and the voices were only slightly higher pitched -- barely noticeable.

On other machines that I acquired that needed new belts to run at all, I usually had to slow them down as well since the new belts made them run faster, but as I said this machine did not need new belts.

This is the first sound Sankyo machine I've acquired, and I'm ready to say that the similarity to Yamawa-made machines is not a coincidence. I've mentioned the similarity before, but that was based on pics of Sankyos compared to Yamawa machines that I own. The film path is virtually identical, with small variations that occur even amongst my Yamawa machines. Maybe one company outsourced to the other, or had the same supplier of parts. I'd bet they were made in the same factory by the same people. I tried one of my Yamawa lenses in the Sankyo, and it fit.

Since this has a 150 watt EFR lamp, I'll also say again that I don't notice a difference between it and my machines with an EFP lamp that I've been using lately. Now the lamp in the Sankyo isn't new, and I actually had to clean the pins for it to light up at all. And I've been using an f1.1 lens in the Elmo ST-800. I'm not sure if it is worth getting the Sankyo f1.1 lens to see how that is.

My main reason for acquiring the Sankyo 702 was because it uses the 150 watt EFR lamp, and it can be converted to take 800 foot reels by buying a new rear take-up guide from Van Eck. An 800 foot reel fits fine on the supply reel. I also wanted to see how sound Sankyo machines performed, and I got it at a good price, since it was minimally tested without film. (Sound familiar.) I had anticipated sinking more cash into it for new belts, but at least for now that is not necessary.

Quote: Bill Parsons wrote in post #11

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Thought I would mention you can easily modify the Sankyo projectors to take 800ft reels by cutting down the original exit guide and fitting a roller, as stated the arm is long enough it is just the guide that prevents the 800ft reel fitting, in fact on the sankyo 800 the guide is the only difference apart from the sound of course.

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It looks like you would have to drill a new hole in the guide to re-attach the roller after it is removed from the piece that is sawed off.

With my luck, as I'm drilling the hole, the plastic will probably break, or the hole I drill will be either too large or too small for the screw to fit. I'm not a very good driller, though I do have a decent drill that I've used from time to time with plenty of different sized drill bits.

I've converted machines to take the halogen qlv-1 bracket, and the hardest part was getting the hole the right size to fit a screw. I wound up making the hole large and larger by re-drilling, then the screw was too loose, and I wound up pouring through my jar of screws to find one that would work. The devil is in the details.

I often think it's probably easier just to but another machine made to take the larger spool size.

Quote: Tom Photiou wrote in post #16

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I often think it's probably easier just to but another machine made to take the larger spool size.

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Quote: Simon McConway wrote in post #9

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I have both the B & H DCR & DCM, which were actually made by Sankyo. Again, reliable machines.

B & H also made a DCT with 15v 150w lamp. I noticed on mine a small pad of white material under the lamp, protecting the soundhead from heat. I wondered if it was asbestos! Anyway, sold the DCT on, as the projected images were not as steady as those on the DCR & DCM.

By the way, this forum is great. We have a lack of so-called experts here who actually know nothing, unlike another forum out there. Just seems altogether better, more respectful.

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I paid about 10% of the price here:
http://8mm16mmfilms.com/super-8.htm
For posterity, one for $1,299, the other for $1,399.

Does Phil embed a few ounces of 24k gold in his machines?
I guess if you have 5 thumbs on each hand, can't use a screwdriver, can't find grease in the hardware store, don't even have a hardware store nearby, your intelligence is artificial, don't know where to buy belts (although Phil sells them on his site), and thought belts just kept your pants from falling down, it is a good deal. And you don't know how to change a light bulb. Could you even figure out how to use the proector in that case?