I had always left the projector on with the fan running at the end of watching films for the day/evening, until the air coming out was cool. Many people swear by it, but I've come to the conclusion that it does nothing to prolong lamp life.

If you think about it, letting the lamp cool off without a fan could not do any harm. When the lamp is off, it is of course cooler than when it is on. The real "damage" is done to the lamp when it is on during projection.

If anything, cooling it off too fast could cause an issue. Emphasis on "could."

The real purpose of the fan is to keep the lamp from overheating during projection, and of course to help protect the film and the gate from getting too hot.

Some projectors, like Eumigs, run the fan as soon as you plug it in. They also pre-heat the lamp, which helps.

The Elmo ST-1200HD allows you to run the fan with the lamp off, and the spindles and shutter not turning. It's nice that the lamp switch is completely separate from any other control. It also has a high/low setting on the switch.

The Elmo ST-800 requires you to put the machine in forward to run the fan -- with the spindles and shutter turning. It only turns the lamp on when you engage the sound heads.

Sankyo sound machines (at least the 702 I have) also require you to put the machine in forward to run the fan. It also preheats the lamp like Eumigs.

So my current line of thinking is the only way to improve a lamp's life is the quality of the cooling system already inherent in the projector. I'm not sure anything else can be done other than using a "low" setting for projectors that have it, but I much prefer the brightest picture possible.

I've not thought too much about halogen bulbs having a cooling off period but I was always careful when it came to xenon bulbs , Mark

I would expect the fast cooling would be a point if you were moving your projector soon after turning it off. A warm filament would possibly be more fragile than a cold one?

I only do that on my GS-1200 Xenon, then I leave it on for 5-10 minutes

Quote: Eivind Mork wrote in post #3

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I would expect the fast cooling would be a point if you were moving your projector soon after turning it off. A warm filament would possibly be more fragile than a cold one?

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If I remember correctly the cooling down of the lamp was in part due to the times when 16mm was shown in schools and clubs etc where the equipment was set up,film shown ,equipment removed soonest.Not a good idea until lamp has cooled,hence the quick cooling using the fan.
Having said that we always cooled the 35mm xenon after use.
Personally I run my fan on my machines for a short time and then leave the machine to cool under its own steam,having said that the machines are not being moved.I also cover the machine when it’s cooled right down with a large lint free cloth to try and keep dust out.
Everyone has there own reasons for cooling lamps,but certainly don’t move the machine with a hot lamp.

I've always allowed projectors to cool before moving then around, we are fortunate, (at present time) to have a permanent film room set up so the projectors only get moved when I change them over to ensure they all get used. Once the films show is done, like Gwyn, the projector get fully covered with a 100% cotton sheet. The ones on display also get covered along the top to keep dust out as much as possible. Cant see cooling a normal halogen bulb down with a fan would be any benefit.

I have seen some people run their projectors with an office/table fan perched next to and pointing directly at the projector with the idea it keeps everything cool. I guess in principle it would, but after 40+ years of being a collector, I see no reason for it, never had a problem aside the bulb connectors wear, they have all been replaced with a Bill Parsons conversion which is way better than the original. (1200HDs).

Ever since I was a kid, the projector pretty much stayed put and wasn't moved. I only move projectors around now since I have so many and swap them in and out for a change of pace, or to switch gauges if it isn't a dual-8 or I need 16mm.

As a kid, I was taught to let the fan run in the Eumig 810D until the air was cool, and that became a habit that carried into my adult years. It was really just in the last week or so with a projector like the ST-800 where you have to keep it running in forward for the fan to work that I started to think -- "hey, wait a minute!"

When I was a kid, in the years before VCRs became household items, my 810D was a daily workhorse. Lamps blowing out was never a "thing" that I remember too much about. I remember my dad replacing the lamp maybe every few years. Letting everything cool off to me was more for the motor than anything else.

I attribute the EFP long life in the Eumig more to the pre-heating feature than anything else.

I cover my projectors with nylon covers when they are not in use -- but I wait for the macine to cool off before covering them!

Is the Bill Parsons' conversion anything more than replacing the lamp socket? That's pretty easy to do -- I've only needed to do it, though, on my old Eumig 810D, or for projectors converted from incandescent to halogen. You just need to make sure the new socket is rated for at least the voltage the projector supplies to the lamp, and the wattage of the lamp.

The contact change is a part of the conversion, il add some images later. He changed the bulb holder unit itself, a much better job that just changing the connector.

one of these?


I'd just use the socket part in white, which can be bought separately.

As long as the bulb is getting the full voltage, easily tested with a volt meter, the lamp will be at maximum brightness.

There are several versions of what people do with these, what I believe we have is a professional engineers own version which is designed to last and not overheat/burn out or be too crammed in the housing. A lot of the housing is cut away and the new bulb holder itself, (not the connector) is a simple bar which, like the Eumigs, you bend down and pull away, simple, but also made to measure properly so no stress is put on the glass. This clearly gives a bit more room for the connector and does away with that set up of lifting the lid and sliding the bulb out, everything is easier to get to.

Cool.

I've always liked Elmo's lamp bracket better than Eumig's actually. With Elmo, you slide it in -- with Eumig, you need to press the socket onto the pins, which seems to add more stress. But since we are not putting them in and out constantly, I doubt that one-time stress on the Eumig would cause harm.

I've never had an issue with the Elmo blowing lamps often. I guess it comes down to how often you use a machine. The only time I let out a loud curse when the lamp blows is when it happens on an old machine with an incandescent. The projector then gets shelved until I work up the energy to do a halogen conversion.

Reminds me -- I need to order an EFR for my Elmo ST-1200HD -- no spare and I don't remember when I last replaced it. Also, whatever the Elmo 16CL takes, though my "spare" is in my B&H/Eiki right now. Also need some EJM spares for my Elmo silent machines. I'm well stocked on EFPs and believe or not Spacemen bulbs for my Bolex 18-5! I have a Bolex 18-5L Super that I've had for a couple of years, but have never tried since the bulb was DOA and no longer made or available at any price. I haven't gotten around to converting it because the QLV-1 is too big to fit in it! I'm curious where Bill Parson got his parts as they may fit in it.