Timothy suggested a similar thread for 16mm users as we have done for those new to 8mm. Most of us have not been trained in the correct way to handle film; I have not read anything on the subject either.

When taking a film out of its box, the box is usually upright, so I just grip the reel with a thumb and one finger; however, recently I received a film in a fibre case, and the case was laid flat; when I came to lift the top reel (plastic), by the edge, I noticed how pliable it was, and the film moved with the reel, this could cause Cinch marks, so now I use the holes around the centre of the reel to lift it out, that way there is no movement to the film.

I was wondering if that was the purpose of those holes; I have never read anything that explains how you should remove the reels. Had it not been for knowing about Cinch marks, and what causes them, I would not have given this any more thought.

Robert the purpose of the holes at the centre hub is for handling of the spool. You have really answered your own question here.
Never grip a spool so that the edges bend and are stressed. This will cause it to buckle over time and cause problems on projection.
In fact if you have a buckled spool that cant be straightened out. Chuck it out its no damned good. The same for those nasty plastic ones.

You should also never pull on the leader of the film to take up any slack on loosely wound film. As this too will also cause very nasty cinch marks.

I have had problems with a few metal spools, and changed them when I had a spare reel of the same size.

Its always a good idea to rewind film on Manual Film Arm Winders too. Take your time and wind slowly and tightly. If you have a problem handling the film by its edges during rewind just put gentle slight pressure on the spool of film that is being rewound using a finger or placing
the palm of your hand over the top of the spool. Try and avoid those blasted motor film rewind facilities that are built into the projectors if you can.

What kind of prices am I going to encounter with bulbs for 16mm projectors? I know that some bulbs for 8mm machines can be quite high. Would they be about the same? Also, do they make press tapes for 16mm films?

I usually pay about 10 euro for mine. Elmo 16 CL uses a 250 W bulb. Not that bad

Timothy, it depends on whether it is an old projector, it's possible in the UK to get a quartz lamp for around £5 if you shop around. Yes, Presstapes are available in 16mm.

David, I have a manual rewinder, but I think the limit on there is 800ft.

You can get supplies of Presstapes from Van Eck Services.

Which is where I get my lamps too. Great service

I am using obsolete lamps in 16mm so I look around for the best price. I have stockpiled, so I think I should be OK into my 80s.

I´m also in the lamp collection club. I believe that I will never run out of projection lamps. If II find lamps to fit my projectors at a reasonable price I buy them.

Robert its good to hear you have at least a set of Manual Rewinders even if they only have 800 foot spool capacity.

I finally found a pair og Neumade rewinds with 2000ft capasity 2 years ago, when I bought a big collection of educational films and a half doozen of projectors

David, I have always used the rewinder on the projector. I use the manual rewinder to inspect smaller films or repair them.

we all need to keep our prints tightly wound to help prevent any further cupping or curling

Not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but are most 16mm films (t.v. prints in particular), going to have optical sound or magnetic sound?

Optical. Very few magnetic. I think I have one or two mag myself, rest is optical

Thanks Vidar. So If I ever move into 16mm, I should seek out a projector with optical sound?

For sure. Check the Elmo 16-CL, the slot load is excellent. My choice, I know others will have different views

Here's a handy hint for users of B&H 16mm projectors, the ones that use the little fabric belt on the take up arm. After a time, the little
belt gets dirty, stretched and smooth, causing slippage on take up and wow on sound. I have found that washing them in a strong detergent and hot water then drying them out in an oven or microwave rejuvenates them. It can be beneficial to give them a little buff with a suede brush, just to lift the fabric. On replacement you'll find its as good as new, I haven't had to buy a new belt yet. A little
rub with an abrasive on the inside of the take up wheel helps too.

good one there hugh, i've also found that if you apply a smear of clear silicone on the inside of this belt, it gives a slight more torque on take up for all those saggy baggy warped and cupped prints.

i might add that i have also converted my bell and howell tq3's that have a/258 bulbs to run with a1/259's. have done many hours of tests and works great. no more paying stupid prices for a1/258's

Some great tips there Clyde and Hugh. Cheers.

Another little tip I picked up on another forum is that you can gets bits of fluff building up over time where the pull down claws are, preventing them from engaging the film properly. I don't like to use anything metal, but had to use a pin to remove it, a cocktail stick was to wide.