a common problem with these, i have done the usual trick of ensuring the rubber discs are all cleaned up and also the spinning do dah, any other ideas? Ive been trying to get a guide on these models for lubricating, preferably a service manual, i think this one has been stood still for some time.

If I start my 810 when it is cold it slows down a bit first, but if I keep it running for a minute or so before I start the film it works flawlessly the rest of the evening. I presume you have let it run for a while before you stop it?

i have, and the first two films went through fine, we changed it to std 8 and it appears to be running at 20 fps,(approx). It sounds slow

And still slow if you change to Super 8 again?

yep

Hi Tom, I don't have experience of your machine, but if the layout is similar to the older Eumigs, after roughing up the rubber wheel
and spindle, try putting pressure on the motor, on the "S" machines, there is a threaded hole for a screw, I have done this in the past, but it does mean using rewinds as it alters the rewind on the projector, making it in operable.

Unfortunately the rubber drive discs do wear out in time. You will notice a groove has formed.
If this is the case then its " ta ta " time and it should be replaced. My own 710D is like this now.

New rubber "inserts" may well very easily be made and fitted. Don't throw an otherwise perfectly serviceable machine for reasons like this.

There is and always will be, a way out from worn fiction linings.

Andrew Hahahaha ! I meant to say the "rubber discs " should be replaced and not the machine.
Do you know of anyone who does this for the Eumigs here in the UK ?

Ah that's reassuring then David! Ha ha.
Not having any other machine made by Eumig other than a 938 in good working order mechanically, i haven't found a need to look into this one yet David. Should the day arrive when I have issues with my Eumig, I will post whatever solution I come up with on here.

You have tried sand paper on the rubber disc? I had the slow and film eating before I did this on mine. Now it is okay, but still need to let it run for a minute or so. Getting new rubber would be great though

if i were replacing the friction linings, i would use Neoprene. it's much harder than rubber and is harder wearing while still retaining the excellent gripping qualities of rubber itself.

It can be obtained in sheet form or on a roll in various thicknesses starting with very thin thickness (less than 1/16th of an inch) and is used extensively in industry for gaskets etc.

In industry, it is generally bonded to steel surfaces using Evo Stick applied to both surfaces until tack dry. A simple set of engineers hole punches would be all else that would be needed i reckon.

When i first got this machine it was one owner from new so its been looked after but the amount of cleaning i had to do to it inside and out i'd say it hasnt been used in years, after the clean up idid the light sandpaper on the rubber discs, then cleaned then up with a good trade cleaner solution as well as the spinning top.
It all seemed ok but it seems to be still running a little slow. Reverse it terrible.
There are no grooves worn in the rubber at all, in fact you cant even see the two usual rings where the spinning part hits the rubber.

See above Tom, it may well provide you with a solution if the motor windings are still healthy. AC motors can slow down and lose torque as they age and have endured excessive torque. The same thing can happen on ST1200 motors if they have been used a lot to clean films on rewind function, especially if the spindle clutches have been over tightened and adjusted to give maximum torque to the rewind spindle.
If the spindle clutch spring is fully closed or even almost fully closed, there will be too much torque applied to the motor for it's designed specification.

Best never to use any projector to clean films with.

Is the rubber very hard? And you sand papered both sides I assume, as reverse was worse than forward on minw too. I only sand papered one side first I did it

Tom,just put a lever under the motor while in forward projection. see if it responds, at the rear plate.